Click here to view original web page at www.wsj.com

WHEN I LEARNED recently that I was deficient in vitamin D, it was no great surprise. The pandemic had me spending an inordinate amount of time indoors. As another winter set in along with virus variants, my doctor stressed the importance of the “sunshine vitamin.” According to a 2018 […]

Click here to view original web page at www.wsj.com

WHEN I LEARNED recently that I was deficient in vitamin D, it was no great surprise. The pandemic had me spending an inordinate amount of time indoors. As another winter set in along with virus variants, my doctor stressed the importance of the “sunshine vitamin.”

According to a 2018 study by the National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey (NAHNES), D levels have been in decline since well before Covid-19 hit. “Vitamin D deficiency (VDD) and insufficiency (VDI) are increasing at a global level, and they are associated with increased risk of various diseases,” the report said.

SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS

What are your tips for getting enough Vitamin D in your diet? Join the conversation below.

Vitamin D is naturally produced in the body via absorption of sunlight’s ultraviolet rays into the skin, and definitive research identifies vitamin D as essential to absorption of calcium in the bones. According to Duke University endocrinologist Dr. Richard Lee, “As we get older, vitamin D levels decline.” And that contributes significantly, he explained, to osteoporosis, poor bone strength and increased risk of fracture, “which in an older person can be fairly devastating.”

Geography is a factor, too, said Dr. Ingibjörg Gunnarsdóttir, professor of food science and nutrition at the University of Iceland. Simply put: Populations that have more sun exposure year-round more easily produce vitamin D. “In Iceland, for example, we don’t have so much sun during winter,” said Dr. Gunnarsdóttir. “We recommend people to take vitamin D in the form of cod liver oil—which is a supplement for some people, but in Iceland we consider cod liver oil as food.”

She’ll get no argument from Gísli Matt, chef and co-author, with Nicholas Gill, of the cookbook “Slippurinn: Recipes and Stories from Iceland” (Phaidon). “We call cod liver the foie gras of the North,” Mr. Matt said. He diplomatically described cod-liver oil as “an acquired taste,” but he emphasized that the liver itself, also packed with vitamin D, is far more palatable. He loves it pan-fried or fashioned into a spreadable snack for crackers and flatbreads. While cod liver leads the pack in vitamin D content, Mr. Matt said, “a fish-rich diet in general gets us through the dark winters in Iceland.”

Mr. Matt’s comments made me wonder if I could battle my VDD in the kitchen, particularly if I ate like the Nordics do. Dr. Lee and Dr. Gunnarsdóttir confirmed that the best food sources of vitamin D do happen to align with the Nordic diet. On their advice, my winter menu would include a lot of oily fish, such as salmon, trout, char, herring, sardines, mackerel, swordfish and tuna; beef liver; and egg yolks.

Foods That Double Down On Vitamin D

Cod Liver Oil || Cod Liver || Trout || Salmon || Bluefish || Anchovies || Sardines || Tuna || Mushrooms || Fortified Milk/Cream || Fortified Orange Juice || Fortified Cereal || Egg Yolks || Beef Liver || Arctic Char || Swordfish || Halibut || Herring || Mackerel

Mushrooms are the only plant source of vitamin D, especially if they are grown in sunlight or with UV light exposure. Chef and mushroom enthusiast Alan Bergo, author of “The Forager Chef’s Book of Flora” (Chelsea Green), pointed me toward a 2018 study, published in the peer-reviewed journal Nutrients, highlighting chanterelles (notably the yellowfoot and golden varieties) and porcini as particularly D-rich. “These are mushrooms that grow at the peak of summer,” Mr. Bergo explained. As the study points out, vitamin D content in fresh mushrooms does decline in storage. Mr. Bergo therefore recommends buying direct from farmers and foragers at a farmers market, if possible; mushrooms purchased at the supermarket will almost certainly have traveled a longer way and spent a good amount of time sitting in the dark before they reach you. On the upside, the study found that D-rich mushrooms retain the vitamin when they’re sun-dried or dried under UV exposure, making for a pantry-friendly storage solution.

Most vitamin D works its way into the American diet via fortified foods such as milk, orange juice and cereal. As a fat-soluble vitamin, D is easily digested and well absorbed into the GI tract by most people. Drs. Lee and Gunnarsdóttir both said it makes only a nominal difference whether vitamin D-rich foods are cooked or raw, wild or farmed. The trick is getting enough, and how much is enough varies person to person.

The U.S. recommended daily allowance is 600 international units (IU) for the general population and 800 IU for the elderly. According to both doctors, overdoing D is fairly rare (adults should not consume more than 4000 IU in a day). They advise a balance between foods naturally rich in D, fortified foods, supplements and plenty of sunshine.

Here’s how I plan on following my doctor’s orders this winter: Start the day with some fortified milk, O.J. and/or cereal. Walk in the midday sunshine. Take multivitamins. And, most appealing of all, prepare D-licious recipes such as those featured here: Mr. Matt’s charred arctic char with dill emulsion; a chanterelle chowder adapted from Mr. Bergo’s website, theforagerchef.com; and a simple, snackable cod-liver mousse. Fortunately, another great source of D, tinned fish, happens to be trending, with a bounty of tasty new imports now available stateside. (See “A D-List for the Pantry,” at right.) And don’t turn your nose up at a spoonful of good old-fashioned cod-liver oil, either. (See “Viking Tonic,” also at right.) It’s an easy D delivery system, and if you haven’t quite acquired a taste for it, why not opt for a fennel- or ginger-flavored version? This is about feeling good, after all.

To explore and search through all our recipes, check out the WSJ Recipes page.

Charred Arctic Char with Dill Emulsion

This dish is packed with the “sunshine vitamin,” thanks to D-rich arctic char and egg yolks. The bright-green dill emulsion plays off the luxurious fish; toasted coriander provides crunch.

Total Time: 1 hour 30 minutes(includes curing)

Active Time: 30 minutes

serves: 4

JENNY HUANG FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL, FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES, PROP STYLING BY BEATRICE CHASTKA

Ingredients

For the fish:

• 4 (6-ounce) skin-on Arctic char fillets
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 5 tablespoons sea salt
• 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
• 4 tablespoons dried thyme
• 4 tablespoons coriander seeds
• Dill fronds, for garnish

For the emulsion:

• 1 bunch fresh dill
• 1¼ cups vegetable oil
• 1 clove garlic
• 1 shallot
• 4 egg yolks
• 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
• Juice of ½ lemon
• Sea salt

Directions

1. Clean fish of any bones and place on a plate. In a bowl, mix lemon zest, salt, sugar and thyme. Spread mixture evenly over fish, and let cure in refrigerator 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 320 degrees. Place coriander seeds on a sheet pan and toast 10 minutes. Set aside to cool. Increase oven temperature to 350 degrees.
3. Make the emulsion: In a blender, combine dill, oil, garlic and shallot, and blend on low speed until mixture reads 170 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. (This can take up to 8 minutes. Check temperature after 3-4 minutes.) Strain oil through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl, pressing on solids until all oil is released.
4. Clean the blender, then add egg yolks, mustard and vinegar. Blend until combined. Add herb oil and blend until completely emulsified. Season to taste with lemon juice and salt.
5. Remove fish from refrigerator and rinse off cure. Pat dry.
6. If you have a kitchen torch: Place fish on a sheet pan skin-side down. Bake until a touch rare inside, 4-5 minutes. Remove fish from oven, flip, and use kitchen torch to char flesh side. If you do not have a torch: First, in a dry skillet over high heat, sear fish on flesh side until charred. Transfer fish to a baking sheet, skin-side down, and bake 4-5 minutes.
7. Let fish rest at least 2 minutes before serving, then divide among four plates. Dress fish with emulsion, and scatter toasted coriander seeds and dill fronds on top.

—Adapted from ‘Slippurinn: Recipes and Stories from Iceland’ by Gísli Matt and Nicholas Gill

Cod Liver Mousse

Sharp notes of aquavit, horseradish and lemon cut through the richness of the cod liver while invoking the flavors of the Nordic kitchen. Light and spreadable, this mousse is a particularly fine companion for Swedish rye crispbread, but it's wonderful slathered on most any cracker, toast or flatbread.

Total Time: 1 hour 15 minutes(includes chilling)

Active Time: 15 minutes

serves: 2

JENNY HUANG FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL, FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES, PROP STYLING BY BEATRICE CHASTKA

Ingredients

• 1 tin (2.1 ounces) cod liver in oil
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 shallot, minced
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon aquavit
• 1 sprig fresh thyme
• 2 teaspoons horseradish cream
• 2 teaspoons lemon juice
• Chopped chives for garnish
• Salt
• Pepper

Directions

1. Drain oil from livers. Set aside.
2. In a sauté pan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add shallots, and sauté until soft, 2-3 minutes. Add garlic, and sauté 1 minute.
3. Add 1 tablespoon aquavit and thyme to pan. Cook until fragrant, 1 minute. Remove from heat, and let cool.
4. Remove thyme from shallot mixture. Transfer shallot mixture to a blender along with livers, horseradish cream, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Blend until smooth.
5. Pour mousse into a small ramekin. Stir in 1 more teaspoon aquavit, and refrigerate 1 hour.
6. Garnish with chopped chives, and serve with the cracker, flatbread or toast of your choice.

—Adapted from Kathleen Squires

Chanterelle Chowder

Alan Bergo, aka the Forager Chef, created this chowder recipe for a mix of wild mushrooms, but it makes a terrific showcase for chanterelles alone, too. If you don’t have fresh ones, substitute 1 ounce dried chanterelles. For even cooking, cut potatoes, carrots and celery into ½ -inch dice.

Total Time: 35 minutes

serves: 4-6

JENNY HUANG FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL, FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES, PROP STYLING BY BEATRICE CHASTKA

Ingredients

• 4 tablespoons butter
• ½ cup all-purpose flour
• 12 ounces fresh chanterelles, roughly chopped
• 2 cups peeled and diced russet potatoes
• ¾ cup diced carrots
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 2 ribs celery, diced
• ½ cup dry white wine
• 2 sprigs thyme
• 2 dried bay leaves
• 5 cups mushroom stock
• 1 cup heavy cream
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Chopped fresh herbs such as chives, dill or tarragon, for garnish
• Lemon wedges, for serving

Directions

1. In a 6-quart stock pot over medium heat, melt butter. Pour melted butter into a small heatproof mixing bowl. Let cool a few minutes, then stir in flour to form a loose paste. Set aside.
2. Add chanterelles, potatoes, carrots, onions, celery, wine, herbs and stock to stock pot and set over medium-high heat. Cover, bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low and cook until the vegetables are tender, 20 minutes.
3. Add flour-butter paste into soup, and continue simmering, whisking briskly, until thickened.
4. Add cream to soup, stirring to combine and heat through. Do not boil.
5. Adjust seasoning as needed, and serve, garnished with herbs and lemon wedges on the side.

—Adapted from Alan Bergo

MORE IN FOOD& DRINK

Copyright ©2022 Dow Jones & Company, Inc. All Rights Reserved. 87990cbe856818d5eddac44c7b1cdeb8