Lamb that has been slow-roasted until it falls off the bone is the centerpiece for an autumn dinner gathering with friends. (Photo by Cathy Thomas) Ah, take in the aroma of slow roasted meat melding with plenty of garlic and fresh herbs. The house takes on the scent of […]
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Ah, take in the aroma of slow roasted meat melding with plenty of garlic and fresh herbs. The house takes on the scent of what I imagine to be the smell of a French farmhouse with a talented home cook at the helm. An autumn menu with luscious, full-flavored dishes can celebrate the shorter days and cooler evenings; it can be the cornerstone of a small dinner gathering.
Autumn is such a great time to bring a few friends together. Cookbook maven and Food Network star Ina Garten has mastered a 4-hour leg of lamb that would be hard to beat. The technique of low and slow braising for a generous amount of time, seems to create a sense of luxury and liberation.
At serving time, carving isn’t required because the lamb is too tender to slice. Pull-apart pieces are served warm in large, shallow bowls. Diners’ large place-setting spoons scoop up the meat along with reduced wine-based braising juices and Provençal white beans spiked with celery, carrots, garlic, and fresh herbs.
Before the lamb is served, a multicolored salad of golden beets, oranges and red onion brightens the lineup. It is napped with a made-ahead shallot and fresh tarragon (or basil) vinaigrette. A light sprinkle of crumbled goat cheese adorns the top. The hues reflect the season and everything except the assembly can be prepared in advance. To save time, I use ready-to-use peeled and steamed beets that are packaged in in small boxes and displayed in the produce section of the supermarket.
Some may argue that ice cream doesn’t seem apropos for a fall menu, but in this case, it seems to be the ticket. The oven is tied up for hours with that gently cooking lamb, so baking is probably out. Besides, ice cream sundaes topped with homemade hot fudge sauce are delicious no matter the season. Small ones are probably best in this case.
My favorite hot fudge sundae uses a chocolate ice cream amped with peanut butter (such as Breyer’s Chocolate with Peanut Butter). Riffing on the peanut butter theme, I add a small sprinkling of salted roasted peanuts as a garnish on top of the hot fudge. Add whipped cream if you like, and perhaps a crisp cookie.
Welcome, autumn. Dig in.
Ina’s Four-Hour Leg of Lamb with Provençal White Beans
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
One 6- to 7-pound bone-in leg of lamb; see cook’s notes
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon kosher salt and 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
One (750-ml) bottle dry white wine
2 heads of garlic, broken apart into cloves but not peeled
15 large sprigs fresh rosemary
15 large sprigs fresh thyme
6 bay leaves
Cook’s notes: Before you buy the lamb, measure the diameter of your pot. If the lamb is longer than your pot, ask the butcher to cut off the shank end of the lamb and cook both pieces together in the same pot. I generally do this no matter the measurement because it makes it easier to turn when searing the meat.
PROCEDURE
1. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Generously rub lamb all over with olive oil and season all over with salt and pepper. Heat a very large ovenproof Dutch oven over medium-high heat until its hot. Add the lamb and sear on all sides for about 12 minutes, until its browned all over. Remove the lamb to a plate.
2. Add the wine and 2 cups of water to the pan and cook for a minute or two, scraping up all the brown bits in the bottom. Add the garlic, rosemary, thyme, and bay leaves and the lamb on top. Place the lid on the pot and bake in the oven for 4 hours, basting occasionally. (If you don’t have a lid, you can cover it tightly with 2 layers of aluminum foil.)
3. After 4 hours, the lamb should be incredibly tender and falling off the bone. Remove the lamb to a plate, cover it tightly with foil and allow it to rest. Strain the sauce into a saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes to reduce. It will still be brothy. Taste it and adjust seasoning, adding more salt if needed.
4. Presentation: The lamb will be too tender to slice; serve it warm in large, shallow bowls with plenty of brothy sauce, and beans (bean recipe follows). Provide large spoons to diners. Sprinkle on a smidgen more of chopped fresh parsley if desired.
Source: Ina Garten, Food Network
Provençal White Beans
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
14 to 16 ounces dried Great Northern beans; see cook’s notes
1 quart homemade chicken stock or sodium-reduced canned chicken broth
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups chopped yellow onions
1 cup diced carrots
1 cup diced celery
1/4 cup fresh chopped parsley, plus extra for garnish
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme, minced
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Cook’s notes: Dried great northern white beans are often sold in 1-pound bags. I often use the larger amount and cook as directed. If you have leftover beans, turn them into a meal by serving the reheated beans with a little crumbled feta and a fried egg on top.
PROCEDURE
1. Place the beans in a bowl and cover with water by 2 inches. Soak in the refrigerator overnight.
2. Drain the beans, place in a large saucepan with the chicken broth and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes or until tender but not mushy. Add 1 tablespoon of salt for the last 10 minutes of cooking. Drain, reserving broth.
3. In a large deep skillet, heat olive oil; add onions, carrots, and celery. Cook over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until tender. Add parsley, garlic, rosemary, and thyme; cook 1 minute.
4. Add beans and 2 cups of the cooking broth. If you don’t have enough liquid, add additional broth or water to make 2 cups. Cook for 15 minutes until the broth makes a little sauce, adding more broth if necessary.
5. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and chopped fresh parsley.
Source: Ina Garten, Food Network
Orange and Roasted Beet Salad with Candied Nuts
Yield: 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
Vinaigrette: 2 teaspoons finely diced shallots, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 1/2 teaspoons cider vinegar, 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, 2 teaspoons minced fresh tarragon or basil, freshly ground black pepper
1/4 red onion, peeled, cut into thin crosswise slices
2 ( 3 if small) Navel oranges or Cara Cara oranges
2 to 3 cups mixed baby lettuces or baby arugula
One 9-ounce box of steamed and peeled cubed golden beets; see cook’s notes
1/3 cup store-bought glazed (candied) walnuts or pecans
Optional: 1/2 cup crumbled chilled goat cheese
Cook’s notes: Steamed and peeled ready-to-use golden beets are often sold in supermarkets produce sections. If you can’t find the golden beets, substitute steamed and peeled red beets (usually the red beets are whole and require dicing or slicing).
PROCEDURE
1. Prepare vinaigrette: In a small bowl or measuring cup with a handle, combine shallots, salt, and vinegar; stir to combine. Add oil and tarragon; stir to combine. Add freshly ground black pepper to taste. Set aside.
2. Place red onion slices in ice water; set aside for about 15 minutes. Peel and slice oranges. The easiest way is to cut off top and bottom of the orange, cutting just deep enough to reach the flesh. Place one cut edge on work surface and cut off strips of peel from top to bottom following the contour of the orange. If some pith (white part) remains, cut that off. Cut into crosswise slices.
3. Drain and pat onion slices dry. Divide baby lettuces or baby arugula on 4 salad plates. Arrange orange slices and drained onion slices on top. Scatter beets and candied walnuts on top of orange slices.
4. Stir vinaigrette and drizzle over salads. If desired, top with crumbled goat cheese. Serve.
Yield: 6 to 8 small sundaes
INGREDIENTS
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate (not chips), finely chopped
3/4 cup heavy whipping cream
3 tablespoons light corn syrup
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
For a salted peanut sundae: chocolate-peanut butter ice cream, coarsely chopped salted roasted peanuts
Cook’s notes: For tips on how to serve, see story. If desired for make-ahead ease, a few hours in advance scoop ice cream into ball shapes and freeze on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
1. In medium saucepan, place all ingredients. Stir constantly over medium to medium-low heat until chocolate melts and mixture forms small bubbles around the edge of the pan, about 5 minutes.
2. Stir for 2 additional minutes while it gently simmers. Use now or transfer to heatproof container, cover and refrigerate until needed up to two weeks ahead.
Have a cooking question? Contact Cathy Thomas at cathythomascooks@gmail. com
