The Chef: Chintan Pandya Illustration: Michael Hoeweler His Restaurants: Semma, Adda Indian Canteen, Dhamaka and Rowdy Rooster, all in New York City, plus, opening later this year, Kebabwala and Masalawala. What He’s Known For: Real-deal regional-Indian dishes prepared with proper technique and a nuanced knowledge of the cuisine. A […]
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The Chef: Chintan Pandya
His Restaurants: Semma, Adda Indian Canteen, Dhamaka and Rowdy Rooster, all in New York City, plus, opening later this year, Kebabwala and Masalawala.
What He’s Known For: Real-deal regional-Indian dishes prepared with proper technique and a nuanced knowledge of the cuisine.
A SIMPLE, SOOTHING semolina porridge warmed up with fresh chiles, ginger, mustard seeds and curry leaves, upma has comforted chef Chintan Pandya since childhood.
“This is a breakfast dish that’s mostly made in the southern and western parts of India,” Mr. Pandya said of his third Slow Food Fast recipe. “As a kid I loved it, and now I make it for my daughter.”
Apart from the spices and aromatics, plus a little tomato for brightness, this dish is basically a combination of semolina and water, similar in consistency to polenta, but with a bit more bite. “You need to cook it gently and stir often, or the bottom will burn,” Mr. Pandya cautioned. A spoonful of split urad lentils adds texture and nuttiness. Toppings of cilantro, lime juice and yogurt freshen each serving. Some people like their upma very thick, others loosen it by adding more water. Find a balance that feels right for you.
“When I want something comforting and simple, I have this for dinner,” Mr. Pandya said. “If I’m in an off mood, this is what I crave.”
Chile-Ginger Semolina Porridge With Yogurt, Cilantro and Lime
Apart from the spices and aromatics, plus a little tomato for brightness, this dish is basically a combination of semolina and water, similar in consistency to polenta, but with a bit more bite. Toppings of cilantro, lime juice and yogurt freshen each serving.
Total Time: 25 minutes
serves: 4
JENNY HUANG FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL, FOOD STYLING BY TYNA HOANG, PROP STYLING BY BETH PAKRADOONI
Ingredients
- 1½ cups semolina
- 3 tablespoons ghee
- 1 teaspoon mustard seeds
- 1 tablespoon split urad lentils
- 6 curry leaves
- 2 small green chiles, finely chopped
- 1½-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped or grated
- ½ yellow onion, minced
- ½ medium tomato, minced
- Kosher salt
- 6 cups hot water, plus more as needed
- ⅓ cup full-fat plain yogurt
- 3 tablespoons cilantro
- Juice of ½ lime
Directions
- Set a medium pot over medium heat. Add semolina and dry-roast until it smells nutty, 1-2 minutes. Transfer to a heatproof bowl and set aside. Add ghee to pot. Once ghee has melted, add mustard seeds and cook until they crackle, 20 seconds. Stir in split urad lentils and curry leaves, and toast until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Stir in green chiles, ginger and onions, and sauté until onions are translucent, about 3 minutes.
- Add tomatoes, stir to combine and season with salt. Return toasted semolina to pot and stir well to combine. Whisk in hot water and continue whisking until all lumps dissolve, 1-2 minutes. Cook over medium heat, stirring often to ensure that the semolina doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pot and scorch, until porridge thickens and has a nutty aroma, 15-20 minutes. If mixture looks too tight, loosen with splashes of hot water. Season with salt to taste.
- To serve, ladle upma into bowls and garnish with dollops of yogurt, chopped cilantro and lime juice.
—Adapted from Chintan Pandya
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